Frozen in Place by the Polar Vortex in Chicago

Chicago skyline at nightThere’s only one time when I hesitate to advocate for a visit to Chicago. That’s when the Polar Vortex hits. Temperatures plunge below zero. Many services stop and transportation is iffy. Here is my winter tale of being frozen in place by the Polar Vortex in Chicago.

I position myself at a front window while the Polar Vortex begins dropping its windy, bitter cold air. This is not my first time experiencing Chicago’s extreme weather. The city averages seven days of below zero temperatures annually. A bone-chilling -27°F in 1985 set a record. I was young and single then. During the winter of 2013-14 the city endured 23 days of subzero temperatures. Aging with the Artic air feels different. I’m fretting. Everything is frozen in place. Shiny slivers of ice encase tree branches. Plowed snow mounds reach above my head.

The warnings have been coming for days. National media headlines are announcing an approaching mass of cold air that will “blast,” “threaten,” “seize,” “attack” and “invade” us. Airplane flights and scheduled trains are cancelled. Businesses close. Schools close. The library closes. And the bank. No garbage is collected. However, the sky is blue. The sun is bright. Wispy clouds match the color of snow.

Snow mounds in Chicago during the Polar Vortex

From my breakfast nook, the quiet stillness outside shifts from serene to eerie. No one is heating up a car or carrying a backpack to the bus stop. The dog walkers are absent. As is my neighbor Maria, who often calls me ‘dude’ to my chagrin. Middle schooler Alfred doesn’t pass by swinging his arms and whistling a song only he knows. Dan the mailman doesn’t rouse my dog.

Had I been stranded on a deserted street I would start praying. But I am inside a warm house with a community of neighbors nearby. I want more information on what to expect. I don’t care as much about temperature as I do about the wind chill. That’s what we feel. At 6:00 am the temperature is -22° Fahrenheit. The wind chill is -50°F. For our weather to become this extreme, something prompted its emergence. The culprit is often wind. Wind is both a rainmaker and a flame thrower.

Living in the Windy City, I start reading about the science of wind on my phone. It’s created when air masses of different temperatures interact. Cold air tries to snuggle up to warm air, creating pressure. The bigger the temperature difference, the faster air flows. Unlike in my house where heat rises, outside air closest to the ground is warmest and gets colder the higher up it goes. As any mountain climber knows.

Tree branches sway towards my window as the wind picks up. Relax, I tell myself. I inhale the aroma of my slow-cooked chicken soup wafting through the house. I decide to go outside to walk my dog. I dress in layers – warm socks, silk tights under my pants, wool sweater over a t-shirt. I add fury boots, a down-filled coat, scarf, mittens and a hat that covers my ears. But my arctic encounter is cut short. The wind is a butcher knife slicing into my forehead, giving me an instant headache. My dog jerks one leg up and trots on the other three before I turn back inside. Nature bears no intent, so no blame can be cast. Icicles on window duirng Polar Vortex in Chciago

I don’t remember the harsh winter of 1985 as much as I do the spring that followed it. My thoughts turn to spring as I continue reading about the weather. I see some beautiful images in the newspaper of a sea fog over Lake Michigan that dims Chicago’s skyline, and rail workers using blowtorches to heat up switches for the commuter trains. A fire and ice drama.

The jet stream’s shifting shuffle of warm and cold air causes its boundary to buckle, much like train tracks do in extreme heat or cold. The stream sags toward the equator bringing pockets of polar air with it. Into the Midwest. I jump at hearing a loud pop sound outside. It’s too cold for icicles to be falling. I learn via social media that the sound is underground frozen soil cracking.

Snowflakes start to fall. Something about how they are dropping makes me think of a snow-globe I bring out each year for Christmas. The flakes outside float, like the puffs that drift off cottonwood trees in the summer. They are not plunging, plummeting, crashing, diving, dumping, or pouring. They are fluent in the way of air and wind.

Hours pass until darkness blindfolds the sky. There’s nothing more to see outside my window. The frigid air soon retreats to its Arctic home. A reinvigorated jet stream brings unseasonably warm weather to the Midwest. I rejoin the outside world. A 16°F temperature feels warm. Neighbors return to their routines. A local clothing shop has a “Polar Vortex Sale” offering 20% off. The wonders and welcome of Chicago seldom cease.

Chicago Millennium Park

When Weather Halts Everyday Life

I should have a plan. The warnings keep coming. Transportation is not an issue. I work from home. But I still need to walk my dog. I have enough ingredients to make chicken soup and beef stew. Cereal, eggs, are shelved as usual. The temperature inside my house can be regulated with the push of a button. The upstairs always gets hot. Kitchen-level is comfortable and the basement, cool. It’s the opposite of how air outside works. And the air outside is changing.

The red berries on my holly bush have turned black. Ice encases all the tree branches. Squirrels hide in their dens. Plowed snow mounds tower above my head. January in Chicago is cold. The city averages seven days of below zero temperatures annually. Its coldest official temperature was -27 degrees on January 20th in 1985. I was young then and single. During the winter of 2013-14 there were 23 days recorded with subzero temperatures. I was married then, with a teenage son. Why was I fretting now?

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Finding Inspiration on a Commuter Train

Commuter trainHeading toward Chicago on a Metra commuter train I didn’t notice the woman who sat down beside me until she said, “I hope you don’t feel crowded.” She had pushed a large piece of luggage toward her legs to clear the aisle. There was a Cub’s game that day and the train was packed with fans. The woman also held a small backpack. She was going somewhere beyond a day trip to Chicago.

I looked at her luggage and said, “No, don’t worry about it.” And asked: “Are you going on a trip?”

“Yes, through the Canadian Rockies on the train.” I got excited and immediately wished I was going with her. She was on her own, an adventurer, and up in years. I had to know more.

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Relax in the Train Lounge Car

Washington DC to Chicago, Capitol Limited, Train No. 29

Lounge car on the Capitol LimitedWhen you’ve been on a train for many hours the Lounge car offers a get-away. During the day, people take in the sites through the large glass windows that arch up to the train’s roof. If you don’t like your seatmate or want a window seat, the Lounge car is the place to go. Retired couples play cards. Families with young children spread out game pieces. College kids lean back with their knees tucked to their chests listening to music through their ear buds. Photographers click their cameras. I didn’t sense a natural way to interact with the people in the Lounge car that day. With invoices and a checkbook laid out in front of her, I wouldn’t interrupt a woman who was busy paying her bills.

At night however, the Lounge car takes on a different feel. These travelers are often on a long trip or disembarking in the wee hours of the morning. There was a chance to be social. I sat down next to Josie who traveled by train from Lawrence, Kansas to Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. She was instantly friendly, telling me about her trip. “The train is the most direct route and easiest way for me to get to the Appalachian Trail.” Her brunette hair hung past her middle-aged shoulders. A slender, hiker body indicated she was a serious outdoorswoman. She was traveling solo.

“My favorite part of train travel is the people I meet,” she said.  (I should have followed up by asking about the people she has met, but missed that opportunity.) Josie added several more reasons for why train travel suits her. “You can get up and walk around. The staff is very friendly and personable. No security checks or hassle with airports. And you can bring your own food on the train.”

What she didn’t like about train travel was sleeping in a single seat. “But I was ready for a day of hiking when I got off,” she said. Heading back to Kansas, she will meet up with her husband. They plan to tour some monasteries before she goes back to work as a home health aide.

Robert was sitting near Josie. He chimed in after hearing my questions. He had boarded a train in Atlanta bound for Washington DC, where he had a six-hour layover, before heading on to Chicago. He shared his memories of riding The City of New Orleans train as a child with his mother and siblings from Jackson Mississippi to Chicago.

For this trip, the question for Robert was should he take the bus or the train? He answered himself.

“Bus is too hectic. The train is laid back. You can meet people. It’s a better ride.” He’s retired now from his job as a welder at Caterpillar. In Chicago he will pick up a car he bought – a 1991 Acura Legend with 95,000 miles on it. “That’s too good to pass up,” he said with a laugh.

I asked him, “What’s next?” With a warm mellow smile he said, “Whatever the world has to offer.”

A young guy with a guitar wearing army fatigues was sitting between Josie and Robert. His hair was cropped in a crew cut. He played several sweet country western and folk songs that matched the mood of a day winding down.

 

 

Sleeping on the trainTime doesn’t matter much while on a passenger train, but it was late. I walked slowly back to my seat balancing my stride through two darkened cars. I stared at the bodies at rest. Their slumber postures showed mouths opened yet silent, heads bowed as if in prayer, arms around each other or dangling in the aisle. A woman’s head rested across her seat into the aisle as if ready for a guillotine. There are no seat belts on trains, so whatever position works is the one a tired passenger will take.

I turned the light above my seat on. As if reading by starlight, I finished a few chapters of Paul Theroux’s book The Deep South. Ready for sleep, I unfolded my lavender-colored pashmina and wrapped it around my feet and up to my shoulders. It acts as my bed sheet, bringing comfort and sweet dreams my way.

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